The one thing to be aware of when buying a generic option is whether your machine is low shank or high shank. However, there are plenty of generic options out there that are probably a bit cheaper, so that’s one way you can experiment with different styles. This really is down to personal preference what style you prefer, so I would recommend starting with whatever is the standard option from your sewing machine brand. There are a few different styles available, from plastic to metal, from open-toed to closed. It’s often called a darning foot, and is designed to smoothly glide over the fabric while still keeping the fabric down when stitching in all different directions. To be able to do free motion quilting, the number one thing you need is a special foot for your sewing machine. And guess what – two of them can be found in your local supermarket. Well, I’m here to tell you that free motion quilting is not like that at all. If you already straight line your quilts, then you’re almost all of the way there! You would already have the larger Size 90/14 needles on hand, and your preferred thread, so there’s just 3 more tools you need for free motion quilting. Knot the pairs of thread ends (I use a granny knot) and use a sewing needle to bury the threads between the layers of the quilt.There are times when you want to try something new with quilting and suddenly you find yourself needing a whole range of new supplies – hand sewing needles, templates, paper pieces, tools, rulers, notions, gadgets and gizmos… And sure, that’s probably half the fun, right? You get to go shopping! But if you’re like me, it can also sometimes feel like a bit of a hurdle to getting started. Use a pin to pull the bobbin thread all the way through to the top. Pull the top thread tight so that it lifts up the bobbin thread to form a little loop. To do this, trim both top and bottom threads leaving a 10cm tail. Your shoulders will thank you for it.Īt the last stitch, pull up the bobbin thread. I like to give an extra stitch to secure sharp corners. Practice on a spare quilt sandwich until you feel comfortable with this. You’re aiming for aconsistent stitch length, so the slower your stitch speed, the slower you move the fabric, and vice versa. Move the fabric smoothly and evenly under the machine. Hold the bobbin and top threads when you start stitching to avoid messy knotted clumps of thread underneath. Use a pin in the loop to pull the bobbin thread all the way to the top. Pull the top thread tight so that it lifts the bobbin thread up through the quilt to form a little loop. To do this, lower the sewing machine needle and then raise it again (half a stitch). Raise the bobbin thread to the top of the quilt before you start stitching. You may also wish to match top and bobbin threads so that any slight tension issues are less obvious. Test it on a sample - you want to adjust it so that you don’t get stitch loops showing on either side of the quilt. (My husband set my sewing machine into my sewing table for this purpose - it makes it so much easier to move your quilt around under your machine.ĭrop the feed dogs and adjust the tension (I always need to drop mine to about 2 on my machine). You can stack books around your machine to create a bigger ‘work table’ at the level of the machine. Use an open embroidery foot for good visibility.įind as big a surface as possible.
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